Crystal methamphetamine is produced using a 'washing' technique that involves dissolving powdered d-methamphetamine in a solvent such as acetone or denatured alcohol. The mixture is allowed to evaporate, causing crystals to form around the edge of the container in which it is being mixed. Feb 21, 2019 -Cannot be removed using acetone or water. You need a mixture of chloroform and ethanol.If it’s marquis reagent tested for approx. 30 seconds it shows false positive for amphetamines.

The Post Reaction Workup:

This post assumes you have just completed an HI reduction of ephedrineor pseudoephedrine to methamphetamine. Perhaps you arrived here by theuse of red phosphorous and iodine, whether by push-pull, balloon, orreflux methods; by hypophoshorous acid and iodine, open or closed,safe or unsafe; the phosphorous acid synth or by the use of HI aloneor with a little red phosphorous added to keep the concentration whereyou want it. This writeup centers on the typical HI/ redPhosphorous reaction, and some of the comments do not apply to hypo orphosphorous acid synths. You have your honey, which is freebasemeth in an acidic solution that is what is left of the precursors youstarted with, the meth produced, and the byproducts of the reaction.That's where this post starts.

Are you finished?: Your reaction flask is full of largerbubbles and those small ones you have watched for so long are missing.When you remove the flask from the heat, and the flask cools enoughthe contents cease boiling, you should see no small bubbling activity.If the smell you already recognize is present add some hot water tothe flask. If you are not too sure about the smell, add a little hotwater, careful not to flood the reaction out. (Geez adds as much hotwater as there is fluid in the flask at this point if the smell isright.) The red phosphorous should fall out of the solution rightaway. When the flask cools just enough for the convectioncurrents to cease, swirl the flask and watch how fast the redphosphorous falls to the bottom. If it stays in suspension or does notcompletetly settle, or if the red slowly drifts to the bottom and thefluid is reddish orange, put it back on the hot plate and let it cooksome more. Hoping all you want that it is really finished will nothelp you at all if it is not. If the signs are not there, havepatience and let the reaction continue until it completes.

If you swirl the flask and the red will settle falls to the bottomlike bricks, your reaction should be considered as finished. Thereaction fluid should ideally be almost clear, just a light tint ofpale yellow. If can be dark gold, beer colored, or even bright pissyellow. Those colors tell you that contaminants are present. If thefluid is reddish-orange, but the red phosphorous falls like bricks tothe bottom, you likely have an excess of iodine present in thereaction fluid. Some like to add a single crystal of sodiumthiosulfate, which will rapidly clear the iodine from the solution.Sodium thiosulfate can also be found in the aquarium area of the bigretail stores as a liquid used to remove chlorine from water. A dropif sufficient. You can also just let the fluid in the flaskboil, condenser removed, for ten or fifteen mintues; this will clearexcess iodine without using sodium thiosulfate.

Fine Filtering Dilute the fluid in the flask with an equalvolume of hot dH2O. Swirl until the red is in the fluid and quickly pour the fluid through a filter. You will not get all the red phosphorous the first time. Add more water, swirl, repeat the process. You may find it helps to hold the flask upside down as you cease swirling (with a stopper in the opening of course) so the red phos will be washed out. Rinse the flask again with near-boiling water. Rinse the red phosphorous filtered out while it is in the filter with additional hot water. The goal of filtering is to get the red phosphorous out of the fluid. Some particles are very small and difficult to filter out without proper filter paper.

Filters that work: The preferred method is to use a Buchnerfunnel with vacuum, and if you have one, you know how to use it. If you do not have a Buchner funnel, take a funnel (do not crimp theprocess by using the smallest one you can find..be generoushere..use one big enough to hold all of what you plan to filterif you can. Gravity filtration is usually done by pressing twoor three cotton balls in the neck of the funnel (not too tightly, buttight enough to catch what red gets by the filters) and putting afluted filter paper into the funnel. Wet any filter papers and cottonballs with water before pouring the honey into the filter. Coffeefilters are an often used substittute for filter paper. The problemwith coffee filters is that they are no fine enough for this job, andthey trap some red phosphorous in the filter fibers. A fourthmethod (and Geez' personal favorite) is the 'Charmin Plug.'This is basically a tapered paper plug for the neck of the funnel,which can be compressed if needed to filter even finer and finerparticles. To make a Charmin plug, take a single square ofunscented Charmin toilet paper, fold it over itself lengthwise twice,or roll it up in a tube about a half inch wide, then roll it likejoint. Roll it with a taper so one end is larger than the opening inthe neck of the funnel. It should be 2 -3 cm long and a littlethicker than the neck of the funnel. Press the rolled plug looselyinto the neck of the funnel. Pour a little water through it and adjustthe density of the plug by pushing it gently into the neck until youhave a steady drip of water, one drop right after another. You canaedjust it for a fine, thin stream and often this will be perfect; thesteady drip seems to remove more of the very fine fine particles orred phosphorous, however. Do not use a filter on top of this, and donot lay tissues flat in the bottom of the funnel.

The beauty of the Charmin plug is that the red phosphorousparticles settle in the funnel and on the top of the plug, where itcan be tapped into a big pile in a drying dish. Most of the redphosphorous on the plug can be wiped off the end of the plug; Thefirst 3 or 4 mm of the plug will have red phosphorous embedded in it;tear this part of the plug off and save these in a jar. When the timecomes to clean used red phosphorous with an acid bath, these can beadded to the hot acid, which will destroy the paper and the paperfibers, leaving mainly a little ash and most of the red phosphorous.Dilute H2SO4 works very well for this. Geez usually saves the plugs until he is either out of red or has a full jar of plugs.

Never stir toilet paper with red phosphorous on it in water. Some folks like to lay a piece of Charmin flat in thefunnel. Geez does not do this. You can only separate red phos from thepaper when the paper is dry; you can do this with a soft brush veryeffectively. You cannot do it effectively from a whole sheet of paper.As this paper is made to fall apart in water, it does. Itreally does if you stir the water. This leaves all the fiberand its a big mess, and you do not want the paper fiber mixed with thered. It gets in the way and is a drag on the reaction. You can burnthe paper out in an acid bath, but it is a better solution to avoidhaving to do so at all.

Swirl the contents of the flask and pour them into the funnel. You mayneed to add additional hot water to swirl, and reduce it to a smallenough quantity that it can all be dumped in the funnel at onetime. (Some prefer not to worry with getting the red phosphorousout of the flask at this point, and use sufficient water to rinse themethamphetamine from the red phosphorous. The red phosphorous isallowed to dry in the flask, where it may remain for the nextreaction, or where it may be knocked loose and come out as powder. Youneed to know the clean weight of the flask if you plan to leave thephosphorous in the flask.)

When all your honey has dripped into the receiving flask, run itthrough the filter one more time. If you are using a Charmin Plug, usea new plug for this filtration. If not using a Charmin plug, filterthrough the red again. The additional filtering has benefits. Some ofthe red phosphorous is very fine, and you do want it out ofyour honey; the second filtration will get more red than you thoughtwas in the fluid. If you filter through the red phosphorous alreadycollection, you also filter out iodine in the fluid; likely not all ofit, but some of it. The cleaner the better.

After the honey has filtered through the red phosphorous the secondtime, wash the red with very hot distilled water. Hot water seems towork better for this purpose than cool water. Wash until theunique meth smell is no longer present in the filters and redphosphorous, or at least until the smell is very faint. You donot want to unnecessarily thin the honey out so much the volumebecomes a problem for the extraction, but you do want a much moredilute fluid than you have when the reaction completes. Diluting thereaction fluid it to about three times its original volume seems towork well. If you do not dilute at least that much, basing willproduce too many solids and make the extraction difficult. Dilute muchfurther than that and you make the extraction more difficult.

The Non-polar solvent wash of filtered honey. How do youwash honey? With a non-polar solvent. This step may be the onesingle most effective cleaning technique of the post reaction process.Skip it at your peril! Put the honey in a separatory funnel (orghetto equivalent) and add an equal part of non-polar solvent. Choiceof solvent is up to the individual, but Geez likes to use xylene fortwo such washes, hot naptha for one (since he extracts twice intonaptha). He will shake the sep funnel with the solvent in it, notviolently, but enough to mix it well. After shaking well, let thefluids settle and separate out the non-polar solvent. If you had a dirty reaction, you probalby picked up orange solids, trash, and cloudy masses of whatever that might happen to be-- do not be concerned--- you do not want this stuff. Your product is safely inside that aqueous reaction fluid and cannot be persuaded to jump to the non-polar until you base the solution and strip that salt off of the meth molecule. You are [i]not going torinse the goods out with non-polar solvents. [/i] So, do it again. Anymore trash come out? Do it again. In fact, keep doing it until thesolvent is clean. You will most likely continue to see cloudynon-polar solvent with a yellowish coloration after such a wash.Wash until the solvent is clear. TCE is also very usefulat this point. Use smaller volumes of TCE than you would othersolvents; do not shake the sep funnel or you will have an emulsionthat will need fifteen minutes or so the break down. Turning thefunnel end to end slowly will do the job quite well.

If your honey was bright yellow, or if it was particularly dirty andthe non-polar solvent continued to extract yellow tint from it, youhave some contaminant like PEG in the fluid. Some bees will bring thehoney to a boil in the flask with non-polar solvent present, andreport that this appears to eliminate PEG. The logic behindboiling the contents of the flask is apparent. Hot solvents cleanbetter and boiling the fluid makes certain there is enough convectionin the flask to expose all the fluid to the solvent. Experience withpill extraction suggests five mintues is probably sufficient time forthe non-polar to absorb what it will; if it is saturated with trash,one may always follow with another boil.

Which solvent to use? Geez suggests using an agressive solventlike xylene or tolulene; he has had a couple of bad experiences withodorless mineral spirits not separating from the honey and for thatreason does not use mineral spirits for this purpose. Use the solventyou will extract the meth with at least once, and if it is used first,use it for two washes. Geez extracts with VM&P naptha most of thetime, and always does at least one wash with hot naptha. Washingthe reaction fluid with the solvent used to extract will removeanything in the fluid that is soluble in that solvent, which means itwill not be in the fluid to be extracted with the meth. This logicallytranslates to cleaner meth. If you plan to 'kerplunk' -- or extract with hot naptha, Coleman's fuel, orequivalent-- wash with hot naptha, Coleman's fuel, or equivalent at least one time. Even if you will extract withnaptha, this poster recommends washing the reaction fluid withtolulene or xylene prior to washing with naptha; there is no reason touse mineral spirits or naptha to wash if you will extract withtolulene or xylene, except for economic reasons.

Patience: when you do these washes, don't be in such a hurry you don'tgive the solvent time to work. Leave that first wash in the sep funnelfor five or ten minutes after shaking the two together. The differencein what you find in the solvent after a short wait will convince youthe wait is worth doing, and remind you that patience pays.

Steam distillation or solvent extraction? At this pointyou will proceed to do an acid/base extraction or steam distillationof the soon-to-be-freebase metamphetamine.

If you elect to steam distill, the chances are you are not reading this anyway, but if you are, refer to this excellent write-up of that procedure: VideoEditor: 'Easiest Post Rxn Steam & Clean for RP/I ' (Stimulants)

If you will do a conventional acid/base extraction, and are unfamiliar with acid/base extractions, please review the sticky thread: MaDMAx: 'LOOK! Recrystallization and A/B general info' (Newbee Forum)

You may elect to do a variant of the acid/base extraction called 'ker plunking:' Worlock: 'Ker Plunking for quality and quantity' (Stimulants)

The acid/base extraction:Mister_Clean: 'Time to learn about acids and bases' (Stimulants)

Transfer your reaction fluid in a separatory funnel (or ghettoequivalent). Add the non-polar solvent you have selected to use toextract the methamphetamine. The amount to use is dependent on thequantity of methamphetamine you will extract and on thecharacteristics of the solvent you will use. Standard procedure is toextract three times with equal volumes of solvent.

The volume of solvent is more dependent on the quantity of methto extract rather than the volume of the reaction fluid, whichincludes the water used to rinse the flask, the red and thefilters. Experience will give you a feel for it. For extractionsof less than one ounce of expected methamphetamine, use at leastthree 200 ml volumes of solvent. Use 300 ml volumes if using naptha ormineral spirits. You want to use enough solvent to collect thefreebase without fully saturating the solvent, but not so much thatyou make extraction of the methamphetamine from the non-polar solventdiffiuclt due to the volume of solvent itself. This poster willincrease the volume of solvent by 100 ml per half ounce of anticipatedmethamphetamine yield. That is nothing more than his rule of thumb,based on his experience, and it will serve as a guide to you until youdevelop a feel for the volume you need. Frankly, the poster eyeballshow many glugs from the can are enough, and maintains that the volumecan be too much, but is not as critical as you might think. There is arange of acceptable volumes. Try to hit the middle. Too little, youleave some product behind, too much you waste solvent and riskdiluting the freebase so much you cannot recover it all. You canalways extract another time, a fourth, or fifth time with non-polarsolvent. The 200 ml volume is a suggestion applicable to naptha,coleman's fuel, charcoal lighter fluid, and xylene. TCE is a veryeffective solvent to extract freebase methamphetamine and doesso with about half the volume of the other solvents mentioned. It isalso much more expensive than the other solvents. Remember it will bethe bottom layer in the sep funnel.

Basing the reaction fluid. Make a twenty percent solution ofNaOH. This means fill a beaker on fifth full of NaOH, and fill it withwater. Stir it until all the NaOH dissolves. Let it cool. (Do thisbefore you begin filtering the red phosphorous from the reactionflask, and you will be fine. When its time to let the reaction fluidboil off any excess iodine, make up your solution if you have notalready. You do not need cold NaOH solution. You simply want asolution that has dissolved and completed the reaction NaOH and waterhave, which is exothermic, and you want the resulting solution to havecooled to room temperature before using it.

You should have a separatory funnel (or ghetto equivalent) with thewashed reaction fluid in it. Add the non-polar solvent chosen toextract the freebase methamphetamine unless you choose TCE. TCE shouldbe added after the reaction fluid is based. The solids that form withbasing have a habit of finding themselves in the TCE layer if it ispresent when the base is added. This does not seem to be a problemwhen the TCE is added after the base. Add the NaOH solution alittle at a time. Pour it through the non-polar solvent. Swirl thesolution after addition to distribute the NaOH. DO NOT SHAKE. Shakingjust causes emulsions. You have no need to shake the solutions.Swirling is sufficient for all our purposes here. Watch the NaOHsolution as it enters the reaction fluid. It will immediately turnmilky white, then fade back into transparency. Add a little more NaOH.The same thing will happen. Continue this process, adding a littleNaOH and swirling. Take some time and give it TLC. There is no reasonto shock it with a massive dose-- you can if you want, sure. If youare new to A/B extractions, you will want to take repeated pH readingsof the reaction fluid, which is the bottom layer unless you areextracting with TCE or DCM. The non-polar solvent has no pH. It tellsyou nothing to measure it, per se. You are concerned with the pH ofthe reaction fluid. Measure the pH of the reaction fluid with a meter,a pH test strip, cabbage juice, or--gasp---your sense of sight andsmell. Yes, experience helps. To gain that knowledge from experienceyou must pay attention to sights and smells of the basing process.

Chemists will base to pH 12.8, the point at which methamphetamine HClsheds that HCl and becomes freebase methamphetamine, which isnon-polar soluble and insoluble in polar solutions. It will find itway to the non-polar solvent when the reaction fluid becomes pH12.8 Add NaOH in increments until you reach pH 12.8, testingwith your pH meter.

If you happen to be a cook instead of a chemist, are out of pHstrips, have a meter that no longer works, or hate the smell ofboiling red cabbage, you can simply base the reaction fluid until itis well above pH 12.8. Many cooks add base until the reaction fluid'lye locks.' Lye lock is easily undone by the addition of alittle more hot water. No real purpose is served by adding enough baseto lock up, and it may decrease yield by preventing themethamphetamine from reaching the non-polar solvent.

When you first add a small splash of NaOH solution to the fluidit will turn the fluid milky where that splash mixes, then the fluidwill clear again. Continue to add NaOH solution a little at a timeuntil the reaction fluid goes milky and stays that way. Before itdoes, it will go milk white and stay that way for thirty seconds orso. You are almost there. The next addition of a few ml of NaOHsolution will make it go white and stay white. You may even seensolids beginning to form. This is not a problem. SMELL THE FLASK. Smell that fish market smell? That is the smell offreebase amines. Learn to love it. When you smell that smell, you areright where you want to be, regardless of pH. You are getting theamines. That is what you are after. This is not to be confused withthe lye smell, or the solvent smell. It is a distinctive smell ofthree day old dead fish. You will come to love that smell. Whenyou have milky reaction fluid and smell the fish, your solution is atleast at pH 12.8, and regardless of the precise measure, it is basedstrongly enough to freebase the methamphetamine HCl in the fluid.

Notes on Extracting the Meth into Nonpolar Solvents:

1) SWIRL, and DO NOT SHAKE. There is no reason to shake thebased reaction fluid and the non-polar solvent together. The meth willmigrate to the nonpolar as long as there is a clean interface and somemovement of the fluid. Shaking form emulsions, these emulsionstrap reaction fluid and methamphetamine freebase, keep it frommigrating to the non-polar solvent, and blocks the interface betweenthe polar and non-polar layers. This results in lower yield. Swirling is sufficient.

2) LET IT SIT. This is not an instant process, even though itdoes not take all night. After you hit the magic milky solution, giveit fifteen minutes. Rule of thumb. Not that critical, but don't be ina big hurry. Give the meth time to migrate to the non-polar solution.

3) LATHER, RINSE, REPEAT. Separate out the nonpolar solvent. Save itin another container. Add fresh non-polar solvent to the separatoryfunnel (OGE), let it separate from the reaction fluid. Add a littlemore NaOH solution to make sure the fluid does not fall below 12.8.Chances are it will not. (Note: If you have reason to believeorange gakk is present, only add more base if the pH is below12.8.) Swirl. Let the fluids sit together for awhile. Remember thelast time. After the two layers separate completely, separateout the non-polar solvent. Combine with the first volume of solvent. Some cooks proceed at this point to a third pull with fresh solvent. Geez will add more solvent and leave the fluid for at least a day with the solvent. He gets a little better yield this way. If you do a third pull right away, you may get a small amount of product. If you let the fluid sit overnight, you can often double the amount. Patience pays.

4) SHOULD YOU ADD SALT? Many bees, Geez included, will add sometable salt to the reaction fluid after basing. Add until no moredissolves, but no so much you clog the sep funnel with it. Intheory water is more attracted to NaCl that methamphetamine HCl andwill let go of the meth to get the salt. IS IT TRUE? Who knows? Doesit hurt? Probably not, at least if you don't have emulsions. Shouldyou use table salt? You can, but you are better served with pulverizedrock salt which will not contain the anti-clogging additive. Betteryet, use pickling salt which does not have the anti-clogging stuff init. Table salt may contain iodine in very very small traces anddoes not present a real concern in this application. Does thesalt actually increase the yield? I do not know. I have never split abatch into two equal volumes and extracted one with salt and onewithout.

5) DOING A THIRD PULL. A third pull should be done just like the firsttwo were. Add more NaOH solution. Swirl. Let it sit. Geez letsthis one sit overnight (at least) and sometimes a couple of days. Youcan shake this one if you want to, since its going to sit long enoughfor the emulsion to break down. You are extracting mostly the rogue,stubborn meth molecules that have not let go sooner, and you shouldexpect this to take some time. You extracted the better part of youryield doing the first two extractions. What yield you get from a thirdpull is 'extra' and it is the stuff that did not want tocome easy Giving it more time makes sense. You may choose to save thisand combine it with the next batch, or do it separately. Depends onhow much of a tweaker you are.

6) WHAT TO DO WITH THE REACTION FLUID. Consider the reactionfluid spent after three pulls. Save it. Get a big plastic gascan, etc. and pour it in that can until the can is full. When the juggets full, you can extract iodine from it. Geez usually gets abouthalf his iodine back from the reaction fluid. [i][waste not,want not.) Whatever you do, keep everything until you havefinished everything. That way, if you misplaced what you want, youstill have it. Be patient, and do not hurry the process.

7) ON USING TCE TO EXTRACT METH. Geez notes that the bottom-puller TCEdoes an exceptionally good job of extracting freebase meth. It will doso cleanly if you have washed the reaction fluid with TCE prior tobasing. If you omit the prebasing TCE wash, forget extracting withTCE. Use TCE if you gas; it does not titrate well. Add the TCE afteryou have based the reaction fluid. You can pour it in, but if it comesin a spray can, just direct the spray right into the based reactionfluid. Not much swirling required. TCE will make a emulsion of sortsbut this does break down in ten to fifteen mintues in clean fluid.Give it this time. Do not base with the TCE present in the sep funnel.The NaOH solution will fall through the aqueous layer and into theTCE, the float back up. it tends to dump solids in the TCE layer whenit does this. You will not have the problem if you add the TCE to thebased reaction fluid.

IF THINGS HAVE GONE WELL TO THIS POINT, YOU OBVIOUSLY ARE DREAMING--OR HOW TO HANDLE COMMON PROBLEMS YOU MAY ENCOUNTER BY THIS TIME.

Any number of misfortunes could have befallen the cook by this time.The principal problems Geez is personally familiar with are:

EMULSIONS: There is no single source of emulsions. Some arecaused by adulterants in the precursors, some may be caused byanti-caking additives in table salt, some may be caused by ingredientsadded to NaOH in OTC lye preparations. Some are caused by residues onthe glassware, including traces of soaps or detergents. Some emulsionsare nothing more than the result of shaking oil and watertogether. The most common cause of emulsions is inadequatecleaning of the precursors, particularly pseudo. Using an effectiveextraction technique suited to the source of the precursor is thefirst line defense against emulsions. Recrystalizing the pseudo twicebefore reacting also tend to remove impurities and make emulsions lesslikely. Using NaOH solution rather than dry NaOH to base also helpsavoid emulsions.

Other preventive measures include using rock salt or pickling salt(rather than table salt). Not using soap or detergent to clean theglassware, and rinsing glassware with acetone after washing help limitthe incidence of emulsions. The next best preventive measure isto avoid shaking the polar and non polar layers togeher. Swirling is sufficient. Stirring is permissible. Shaking is asking foremulsions. Period. You do not need to shake.

Combatting emulsions:. There are several ways to combatemulsions. The first is to let it just sit there until theemulsion goes away. Another is to take a stick and poke at the bubbles. This works only if you are sufficiently wired to wantto do this for twelve hours. Another is to add additional non-polar solvent and stir. You may also add a small volume of acetone to the solution and stir. This may be exciting..itmay effervesce as you add it. It may do nothing. You may also add a little TCE while stirring. This will quickly settle to thebottom, but has been reported in certain circumstances to have aneffect of breaking an emulsion. The most likely successful method ifwaiting alone does not work is to pour all of the reaction fluid,emulsion and non-polar solvent into a flask or coffee pot or containerthat will take heat, and heat it up slowly, stirringoccasionally. Bring the reaction fluid to near boiling, and allow thenon-polar solvent to heat up. While doing this, it may help to salt the emulsion with ground rock salt. It may help to add a few drops of hydrogen peroxide the the mixture. The poster haseven added drops of 35% H2O2 to the mix, which gives a violent reaction, which may or may not do anything other than cause the non-polar solution to bubble out of the flask, but is a diversion to watch. While heating, add some boiling stones, broken clay pot pieces, or washed coarse sand to the flask to keep it from forming bubbles so large as to displace the volume of the container and spray you with the meth-laden non-polar solution, rendering all of your efforts a complete waste. This phenomenon is referred to as bumping. Do not let it destroy your day. It is simple to avoid. One final suggestion, used on one occasion by the poster helping a friend out of a jam, is to finely powder activated carbon and add this to the contents of the boiling coffee pot or flask. It will float to the interface. Grind it finely, you want it to be fine. Bring the contents to a boil. At first it will appear that the carbon is blocking any meth from coming to the surface, but as the convection currents in the flask increase the carbon will beging to swirl on the top layer, and you will be able to see into the reaction fluid layer. Boil for ten minutes or so after it reaches this point, the let the mixture cool. Separate out the non-polar solution. This worked quite well when the emulsion present was suspected to be related to glycol and cellulose that was contained in the pseudoephedrine being used.

If none of the above work, suicide is an effective solution, as isstarting over with clean precursors.

Lye lock and other such ideas Lye lock is the state which thereaction fluid reaches when the cooling reaction fluid is saturatedwith NaOH and thickens. The author has experienced something alongthis line once or twice. If you encounter such an event, heat thesolution slowly, or add hot water to it and stir.

You got ahead of yourself and added HCl to the sep funnel. Stranger things have happened. Add more water, add more NaOHsolution. That is all. If you can acidify the based reaction fluid torecover I2, you can base the acid in the reaction fluid to raise the pH.

Ker Plunking -- the variation on the Acid/Base extraction. Worlock: 'Ker Plunking for quality and quantity' (Stimulants)

Ker Plunking-- whether it is all that it is advertised to be or not--does in fact provide an efficient way to perform an acid/baseextraction of methamphetamine from the reaction fluid. While it isprincipally a way of heating the naptha used to collect the methfreebase to increase its solvency, the process also entails heating tocombat emulsions, and a slow basing process which allows one to watchthe process and visually determine that the freebase is eluting to thenon-polar solvent, and to maximize that process by cues derived fromthe addition of base, salt, stirring, and heating. When the bubblesare eluting and are obvious and numerous, stop addition, turn the heatoff an wait fifteen minutes. Separate the naptha from the reactionfluid. In the poster's experience, your yield, if you did thisproperly and with sufficient naptha (count on 500 ml per ounce ofmeth) will come in the first pull. (The poster is in the habit ofletting the reaction fluid cool, adding a little more base to it,salting it a little, adding xylene, sealing the container, and lettingit sit. He will return and extract from the xylene a day or two later,sometimes a week later. The second pull is usually worth doing, willyield an average of ten percent or so of the initial yield, and isusually used as fuel to power the cook through another reaction.)

For those who lack experience with the ker plunking technique, pleaseread the intital thread, remember to use boiling stones or equivalentand do a second pull. Extract the second pull separately. You may cometo the poster's conclusion about the need to do it twice. You should,however, satisfy yourself in this regard before deciding to skip asecond pull.

A short synthesis of geezmeister's view of the Ker Plunk:(Not a rewriteup, nor a writeup, but some short notes on the process for the newbee too impatient to follow the links and read the whole thread.) You have you non-polar washed honey in a flask. A large Erhlenmeyer is fine, so is a coffee pot. Geez likes a white corningware coffee percolater pot, about ten inches deep and four in inner diameter. Regardless of you choice of vessel, add your honey. Add boiling stones, broken crockery, or washed coarse sand, and [i] (do not overlook to do this under penalty of losing your whole batch to a big 'bump,' having a fire, bringing in the fire department who will notify law enforcement..get the picture..this is important!) Add VM&Pnaptha or Coleman's fuel or generic camp fuel. Naptha is the trick,here. Add heat slowly. As the reaction mixture starts to warm, youwill notice gakk, if it is present, at the interface. If you havegakk, the heating itself will help, but you may also add a few dropsat a time of peroxide. Three percent solution should be used, if any.There is dispute regarding whether this process is worth the time oftrouble. No one has posted any side by side test results to determinewhether it is or is not. HOWEVER, Geez says it never seemed to hurt,even when it was 35% H2O2, which should only be added by fools, idiots, and those who just like to see things violently bubble as if all hell were breaking loose. Some folks believe this assists in breaking down certain gakks. Results, at best, are inconclusive. Other thing one might care to add to the pot include a few drops of alcohol, supposedly to keep the NaOH you will add out of the non-polar, but since you are going to wash it later, this too appears to be an old wive's tale of unproven efficacy. Add sodium hydroxide. A little at a time. NaOH, RDL, whatever you wish to call it. If you add it dry, it will sink to the bottom and have a violent little reaction. It will also react when you stir it, and if you add too much--guess what--you can blow all the naptha right out of the pot. Other than just liking the reaction and activity, Geez sees little benefit in adding dry NaOH to the pot. He adds a 20% solution, a little at a time. He stirs after each addition. Let the heat come up slowly to where the rection fluid is just bubbling. All the while, add a little NaOH, a little more, a little more. You can measure the pH of the reaction fluid at each addition, every now and then, or not at all. Your choice. Geez likes to stop adding before it all gets milky and stays that way, and add some rock salt, a tablespoon or so, to the pot. No, no need to grind it up. It will dissolve. What doesn't is excess and will help prevent bumping. (As before, the addition of salt is a maybe yes, maybe no, old wive's tale sort of thing. Rock salt never seemed to hurt a thing. Table salt--that can be different, and you should avoid it since it probably has iodine in quantities too small to matter but anti-caking ingredients that may help emulsions form). Continue stirring, allow the temp of the naptha to rise. If you have a serious emulsion ( which is an indication your pseudo was less than clean) and it has not responded to anything else, add some ground activated charcoal. This will float to the interface layer. Stir, bring the temperature of the reaction fluid up to boiling slowly. Observe the convection currents in the reaction fluid maing the carbon roil in the pot. Keep it there at least five minutes. Then.while stirring add more NaOH a little at a time until you have it right.

How to tell you have it right: 1) measure the pH of thereaction fluid, and confirm that it is pH 12.8 or higher. Higher islikely better, just as a matter of being excessive about all things(the late appearance of orange gakk may have rendered excessively highpH counterproductive.) 1) watch the bottom layer go white, stay whiteand begin to elute small bubbles, like the fizz when you pour soda,only not so intense. 3) Smell the fish market smell and see thebubbles. This is Geez's method, since he is doing this in a non-glasspot.

Now, after you have it right, add just a bit more NaOH, let thebubbles really start eluting up, and turn the heat off. Leave it alonefor at least fifteen minutes. When it finishes releasing the smallbubbles to the non-polar layer and has cooled off a little bit, youare done. Decant or separate the naptha. If you wish to pull again(recommended) do so now. No need to add more of anything, just bringthe naptha up to temp, let setle, and separate. Do three if youinsist. With ker plunking, a third pull is usually a formality only.

Point of convergence For those of you who just returned hereafter steam distilling the freebase and have now dissolved it innon-polar solvent, you are where we are here, only with what isprobably a cleaner mixture of meth and non-polar solvent. For the A/Ber's, and the Ker Plunker's, we meet again at this point.

What to do with the reaction fluid. Pouring it out is not aviable solution. It is full of idodides. You can in fact recoverI2 from the reaction fluid. It is there. It can be recovered. Worlock: 'Sodium Iodide recovery' (Stimulants) If you do not care to do so, please take the time to neutralize the solution with acid, or at least dilute with lots of tap water, so as not to pollute the entire universe and give meth cooks a bad name with the DEQ.

Extracting the meth from the non-polar solvent.

washing the solvent. Yes. Washing the solvent pays dividends.Use distilled water. (Yes, sure, you can actually use tap water orspring water or creek water if you want to..but distilled water isinexpensive and meth is not. So buy some distilled water and use that.Tap water will get you by if you must, but you run the risk ofcontamination with additives and minerals in the water. Your choice.Distilled water is seriously recommended here.) Put thenon-polar solvent/meth solution in the separatory funnel (OGE) and addwarm distilled water. Geez uses about a fourth as much water as he hasnon-polar solvent. Shake this as though your very life depended on itbeing shaken. Then let it sit. Remember the thing aboutpatience? Here is another point where it will pay. Let the washwater settle out completely. The last stuff that falls out is thedirtiest you get. That is why you should wait about ten to fifteenminutes after the first wash, if you can make yourself. Separate outthe rinse water, and save it. Add cool water, same quantity, and wash.Same shaking. Look at it as it settles. Feel it when you separate itout. If you continue to see cloudy material you need to continuewashing. If it feels slick and oily, it still needs washing.

the lye solution washIf after these two washings the wash wateris noticeably cloudy, or if the water is slick, you should proceed todo a lye wash. Use a pre-prepared twenty percent solution, one quarterthe volume of the non-polar solution, and shake like hell again. Allowto settle, separate out, and follow at once with a warm distilledwater wash. You will find the lye wash will clear sodium ions out thenon-polar and will clean it of the lye remnants that may be in it fromthe A/B or ker plunk. Sounds like nonsense, works like magic. Do notbe afraid of it, and remember NaOH is cheap compared to trash in yourproduct.

brine wash A very good wash with much the same benefits as thelye solution wash is the brine wash..a wash with salt-saturated hotwater. This wash also provides a benefit in helping dry the non-polarsolvent if you will gas.

temperature of washes Geez does hot lye solution or hot brinesolution first, warm water second, room temp water third. Why? Hell,he got in the habit of doing it that way for some reason. Seems towork. May even be some science to it, Geez does not know.

Cautions in washing. You can wash with water alone.Conventional wisdom is to never let the ph of the wash water fallbelow pH 9 or 10 while doing this, as you supposedly start losingproduct. Geez thinks this is nonsense, but never tosses out his rinsewater until he finishes up and determines he did not, in fact, throwthe baby out with the wash water. And he has done an A/B extraction ofthe rinse water alone and recovered more than a gram of meth from it(one ounce reaction). This says you can in fact wash out some of thegoodies. So don't toss the wash water until you are through. Note thatthe use of NaOH solution wash will avoid the problem with the pH ofthe water falling, will rid the mix of NaOH residues and excess sodiumions, and make the washes more complete.

Now you are ready to extract. How do you wish to proceed? Options are to gas, or extract with an aqueous solution ofhydrochloric acid. A third method is to accumulate hydrogen chloridegas in alcohol, and add that to the non-polar. The author has neverobserved this method, let alone used it, and if you are interested,you will have to UTFSE.

On Gassing: Dry your washed non-polar solvent andfreebase meth solution before gassing. As to producing the gas, Irecommend you review the following: hclgas.argox.html;hcl-gas.html; LaBTop: 'Re: DETAILED METHODS for NON-CHEMISTS' (Newbee Forum)VideoEditor: 'New Clean Gassing Method!' (Newbee Forum) Geez, when he gasses, uses the VideoEditor gassingapparatus as modified by Dwarfer..the Damp Rid/HCl generator with anaquarium airpump..and could not be happier with it. He gasses withthe tip all the way down in the solution, since with this method thereis no moisture or suck-back. He filters when the mix gets thoroughlycloudy but before is gets thick like applesauce. Part of this is hischoice of solvents when he gasses (TCE) and its particular dryingcharacteristics.

Gassing is usually performed by placing the tip of the hose or wandfrom the gas generator just a fraction of an inch above the surface ofthe non-polar solvent, so that the gas being emitted contacts thesurface of the non-polar solvent and the force of the gas flow pushesit down slightly. Bubblng the gas through the solvent is advocated bysome proponents of gassing and condemned by others. The non-polarsolvent may, but will not necessarily snow crystals. Ususally thesolvent will thicken and look like applesauce. The solvent willhave to be filtered through a filter and the filtrate allowed to dry.

If the gas is not dried prior to application in the non-polar yourmeth will disappear in the water; if you see that yellow nasty stuffat the bottom of the jar, do not despair. Separate it and evaporate itas you would if you titrated.

On titrating Okay, so you can tell Geez primarily extracts hismeth with aqueous HCl and evaporates. People who know agreat deal more about chemistry than Geez call this method titration,which has to do in this instance with adding an acid to a basicsolution in such a manner as to bring the pH of the solution toneutral, or slightly acidic pH. Your freebase methamphetaimine isdissolved in a non-polar solvent. Under basic conditions,methamphetamine will be and remain freebase, with no HClmolecule attached. Under neutral to acidic conditions it will bondwith a HCl molecule and form a salt, which is water soluble. Themethamphetamine HCl will disassociate from the non-polar solvent anddissolve in the aqueous HCl; this water/acid mixture is insoluble inthe non-polar solvent, will separate from it in a layer that maydrained from the separatory funnel, thus collecting themethamphetamine HCl in an aqueous solution.

The pH level is very important to chemists. It is also rather tricky,as the pH level at either end of the scale rises or drops at adifferent rate relative to the addition of the acid or base than itdoes in the middle range of the scale. It will take more acid to gofrom pH 13 to ph 10 than it will to go from ph 10 to ph 7. It takeslittle more than a drop to go from pH 7 to pH 5. Two drops more andthe pH may fall to 3.

Geez always gets the feeling that pH 7 is like a street sign on ahighway-- he's past it before he realizes it. In Geez'sexperience the meth does not take on the HCl neatly at pH 7.0, whichis pretty much a good thing, for it did he would never haverecovered his final product. It starts before you get to pH 7.0 andcontinues if you go below pH 7.0. MOST of it happens around pH 7.0.You want to get there. You can add water and do what the chemists do,which is add acid drop by drop, checking pH as it their lives and methdepended on it. This may be an advisable and worthwhilecharacteristic, but I suggest that it is an unnecessary one in thisparticular application. If you go overboard and get the pH way too lowyou will still get most of your product, you can clean it, and you cangrow crystals. You are going to have some nasties in that last pullyou would not otherwise have, sure..and you may cost yourself someyield. Geez has seen folks toss straight HCl in the non-polar solventby the shotglass, shake it like hell, vent it to release pressure,shake some more, separate it out, and evaporate it. They get goodproduct for the first two times they do it. Their third pull surestinks, and the product from it is usually really dirty. These folkshave never seen a pH strip, let alone a meter. WizardX gave someadvice a long time back on this board to toss a few drops of HCl inwater, toss it in the non-polar and shake well, then evaporate it.Keep evaporating each such pull by itself until you either get no moremeth or the stuff you gets is so dirty its not worth messing with.Toss the dirty stuff back in the mix the next time around. Itwas sound advice, particularly for the cook without strips or a meter.It works. A never-measure-the-pH meth extraction. You can run intosome cleanup problems if you toss that third pull in with the othertwo. In Geez' experience, that was where the dirty stuff came in, andis one of the reasons why he evaps the first two pulls separately fromthe last one. All the same, it works. The folks who toss in acid in bythe shot glass wonder how Geez uses the same gallon of acid as long ashe does. He agrees their product is on the same level as his..he justgoes a hell of a lot easier on the acid. If they can pour it in likethat, hitting the right pH is overemphasized.

Newbees probably should not leave it to chance. I do not recommendthat you never use pH strips or a meter, that you never learnhow to boil red cabbage and use the extract. Those are all wise thingsto do. All the same, no newbee should despair when his water in thatnon-polar he extracted his honey with suddenly bottoms out on the pHscale. Geez learned the how-to part of it before he ever gotacquainted with pH strips that measured high enough, ever had pHmeter, or ever boiled red cabbage. There are sights and smells andpressures and changes you note to tell there is enough. It is not alife or death game of pH levels as far as the meth is concerned. You can over do it, and you learn not to. You can do it by touch andlook and look and smell and not overdo it either. Its a lot like anyAB process: you get a feel for it, a touch, a nose, whatever--- youlearn where in that one quarter of a turn it becomes tight enough, orhere, where the pH is low enough, to accomplish the purpose. And youlearn by experience that dry acetone can be your best friend and thatacetone jar you save your rinsew acetone in your salvation when youoverdo it. That isn't chemist logic at all. But it works for cooks.

If you want the cream of batch, toss ten drops of acid in a 75 ml ofdH2O and pour that into your non-polar solvent/meth solution in the separatory funnel. Shake like hell. Then shake some more, and when you are done, shake it again. Shake it like it meant something, because it does. Drain this out and evaporate it separately. Hey, so what if the pH is 8. You will already have some meth. Add another batch of water and acid, the pH falls more, you get more meth in the next pull. This is why most folks get the bigger yield on the second pull-- they have finally neutralized the mix.

Normally, you will collect the three volumes of non-polar solvent usedto extract the meth from the reaction fluid, and will 'pull'this three times with water and acid. It is not critical how muchwater you use. Use enough, but meth is so soluble in water that a mlof water per gram of meth is probably enough. Use more, get it all, donot try to collect it saturated. You will evaporate it anyway. On aone ounce batch-- where Geez expects 28 grams or so of meth, heextracts with three volumes of 125 ml each. He has done it with less,down to 50 ml, and more (which was a waste of time).

It is very important to shake each volume of aqueous HCl in thenon-polar as though your life depended on it. Chanting and speakingincantations are regarded by chemists as primative superstitions andby meth cooks as humorous ways of passing off the tedium of shakingthe solution. Try chanting some time, it might surprise you how well it works. Chemists like to collect these three volumes ofwater/acid and evaporate them. Geez likes to combine the firsttwo and evaporate them, then evaporate the third one separately. Hedoes this because he frequently gets too low on the pH, has some extranasties in the last extraction, and likes to save steps cleaning mostof his product. The first two pulls will be cleaner. Your choice, asit all cleans easily enough. Besides, by this point in time he hasalready sampled some of the cream of the crop and has the will anddesire to do all manner of unnecessary things.

If the pH falls too low Geez again says this does not happen.You can add water, base it with NaOH and send it back to freshnon-polar solvent, and do it again, but the chances are you will loseproduct in the process and will have a lower yield than you would ifyou just cleaned the product you obtain. If you must hit it justperfect, do this. Understand, you really are placing the pH in aneutral position to allow the freebase to bond with the HCl molecule.When you evaporate the water/acid solution, you are going toconcentrate the acid anyway. It is not that acidity hurts the methHCl, it does not. It may introduce other contaminants to the watermix. These will need to be cleaned, but this is not difficult to do.Geez suggests the easiest approach to not overshooting pH 6.8-7.0 istaking the advice of Worlock or WizardX to use larger batches ofwater, add a little acid to each batch, and do multiple pulls (five ormore) and evaporate each separately. You will know when you fell belowpH 7.0, as the odor of evaporating HCl will burn your nostrils and youwill learn the value of a fume hood. You will also find that if youfollow this method, your chances of contaminating the whole batch withsome nasty creation that resulted from over-basing the mix are muchreduced.

Evaporating This should be done on low heat, in a visionwarebowl, or flat pyrex dish, on a hotplate or with heat lamps, with anexhaust fan exhausting fumes to the outdoors, and with a fan blowingover the top of the dish. Too much heat will result in loss of yieldas some of the meth vaporizes with the heat. Patience pays. If youhave to have some now, evaporate that first pull by itself, then dothe rest. Do it slowly. It will form a skin, or crust, as itevaporates, and will skin over before it fully dries. Try to let itdry without building up on the sides of the dish. Before it iscompletely dry, flood the dish with dried acetone. This technique iscalled 'acetone flashing' and will not only rid the dish ofits remaining water content, it will precipitate methamphetamine hclcrystals in the acetone.

For tips on acetone flashing: geezmeister: 'Re: Acetone Crashing' (Stimulants) While this post addresses flashingpseudoephedrine, it holds true for methamphetamine aswell. Geez recommends letting the bowl settle down andcool down, then slyly tilting the pan so the meth stays in one placeand the acetone slips to another. Then you can just pour the acetoneinto a beaker, and not have to pour it through a filter. Filtersabsorb a lot of product. If you must use a filter and have a Buchnerfunnel, now is the time to use it. If you don't, you can pour theacetone--and meth-- through a coffee filter and let it gravity filter.Rinse with a little fresh acetone, particularly if you used too muchacid. Place the filter aside to air dry, or heat with gentle heat. Ifyou panned the acetone aside, leave the meth in the glass dish todry. If the meth is anything other than sparkling and white,rinse the meth in fresh acetone. Do this in the dish if you havepanned the meth to one side, or rinse the meth in the filter withfresh dry acetone. Do dry the acetone before use, and do save all therinse acetone-- particularly the acetone used to flash when the dishis still warm.

Put the acetone poured off after flashing in a beaker, cover, andplace this in the freezer. You can add the acetone used to rinse tothis. Give this time to chill and pin crystals of methamphetamine willform. You may filter these or return them to a glass dish to pan andseparate the acetone. Save the acetone, it still has gold in it.

Cleaning the methamphetamine HCl The product you have isprobably usable as it is. It also can be cleaned further by rinsingwith fresh acetone. True cleaning calls for recyrstalization.

There are a number of good threads on dual solvent recrystaliziation.The basic principle is to dissolve the methamphetamine HCl in boilingalcohol, filter through a fine filter to remove trash, reduce tosaturation, and combine with another solvent such as dry acetone. Letthe temperature fall slowly and give it some time and meth crystalswill form. You will find these to be much cleaner than the meth youstarted with. A good descriptive writeup can be found in Chicken: 'Step by Step Recrystallization of Meth' (Stimulants) although there are plenty of others.

*********************************************************

The object of this post was to do a basic, if fairly comprehensive,post-reaction workup post for meth cooks. I have no doubt omitted anyand all information having to do with the question which prompted youto read this post in the first place. This is, of course, proofpositive that the universe is as it is supposed to be, and that nogood deed will go unpunished. For very long, at least. No doubt thereare those among you who will take issue at part of this post, which isas it should be; I only intended by this post to centralize insome way the process of leaning for the new bee intent on making meth.If I have succeeded in that respect, I have accomplished what I soughtto accomplish.----- Geez

Pill2Chill

Introduction

sekio edit: Without lab testing, you as a layman can only guess at purity and composition of substances. Reagent color change tests can help to identify pure substances, but are unhelpful at identifying mixtures. Judging purity by weighing what you get out of a wash doesn’t work, either – there’s no guarantee that the residue is amphetamine. Bioassay (“tasting it”) isn’t of any use because of the number of drugs that can look and act similarly to amphetamines. Acetone and other solvent washes are meant to remove certain cuts you know have been added, not to purify or isolate amphetamine out of a mystery mix. (For purification of amphetamine out of mystery mixtures, acid/base extraction is the gold standard.) You can send drugs – pills, powders, or pastes to DanceSafe (http://www.pillreports.com/) or Energy Control (http://energycontrol.org/) if you want professional GCMS testing. It’s anonymous and worth the money.

Acetone and other solvents are flammable and should never be used around sparks or open flames (refrigerators, freezers, electric motors, furnaces). The vapours are volatile and can flash back to the container and cause a boiling liquid expanding vapour explosion. Always work with acetone in a well ventilated area, have something to clean up spills like vermiculite or cat litter (or paper towels or sawdust or something else absorbent) and wet it with cold water. Remember acetone will eat many plastics, paints, and varnishes.

Hey, I figured I would write down this simple guide to acetone washing as there doesn’t seem to be too much information about it on the forums and it definitely has an added HR value. This method works for cocaine hcl, amphetamine sulphate and methamphetamine.

First let’s get this common misconception out of the way. Amphetamine paste = Amphetamine sulphate =/= Amphetamine base. Another common slang is ‘eurospeed’. 2000 seadoo rx millenium edition specs for sale. The base is an oily liquid that evaporates at room temp and is therefore extremely rare. Most people won’t ever come accross real amphetamine base unless they turn the sulphate into base themselves. Sulphate, or the common amphetamine ‘paste’ is not smokable (which real amphetamine base is). The paste is wet simply because it has remainders of solvents used in production, or added by dealers to add weight. Usually acetone and/or methanol, so it’s wise to let your amps dry before using them, even if you’re not cleaning your amphetamines, as both of those are very detrimental to the body. You can easily dry amphetamine sulphate ‘paste’ by smearing out the wanted amount on a DVD case (or whatever you have available), waiting 5 minutes and then scraping it together, or if you’re more patient just leave the open baggy on the heater and all the solvents will evaporate until you’re left with dry amphetamine sulphate.

Amphetamine sulphate, as well as cocaine are often cut with caffeine and other nasty active ingredients. When you’re 100% certain of your source (doubtful in most cases) or can have it tested in a lab (I’m thinking Netherlands, Belgium) you will have no use for this method, but if you’re buying and using it and do not have that certainty: there’s this easy way to clean your amphetamines and remove most of those active cuts. (A good indication for caffeine in amphetamines/cocaine is that it won’t chop to powder easily; but rather clump together and be a little sticky. What you’re left with after an acetone wash will be a product that powders very easily and is notably more pure.) It’s very simple; basically the nasty active cuts are soluble in acetone whereas amphetamines, cocaine and meth are not. A LOT of the cuts will be taken out by this method; but if it’s cut with anything that is insoluble in acetone, that cut will of course be left behind.

Requirements

Amphetamine sulphate (duh)
this is what it looks like, straight from my dealer, uncleaned and in its ‘paste’ form. (aka, a little wet with nasty solvents…)
http://puu.sh/9fgpA/1a29512a57.jpghttp://puu.sh/9fhag/e499a5567f.jpg
Pure acetone.
Why pure? If it’s not pure, it’s likely to contain other solvents that will dissolve amphetamines, thus making a wash impossible. It’s not hard to find; I get mine at the hardware store across the street
http://puu.sh/9fhyW/b8e4ba8830.jpg
a dish This can be a simple plate with some depth, as can be seen in the second pic of the first item on the list, but there are probably better alternatives. Use your imagination.)
A syringe and a Q-tip.10ml is best, or even bigger is better if you’re using a needle. On the pic below it’s a 5ml I believe.
(Needle optional, but it does facilitate the process. The gauge used in the pic is about right, smaller is fine too but if it’s too thin it’ll take more time.)
http://puu.sh/9fzOo/b55a6ed122.jpg
Alternatively you could use a coffeefilter, I advise against this as more amphetamines gets left behind in the filter this way.

Procedure

Cut open the baggy, remove the amphetamines, place on tray/plate.http://puu.sh/9fhag/e499a5567f.jpg
Pour acetone over the amphetamines until it is well covered with acetone. If you need a ml amount; 10-15ml per gram is plenty. You can use as much as is convenient, just try to make it so you’re not wasting too much acetone. Make sure the edge of your tray/dish is high enough so you can still stir it without spilling anything.
Stir, make sure all the amphetamines are spread out and that there’s no “lumps” left. The solution in your plate will be cloudy.
Give it a minute to settle.
Now take your syringe, and using the qtip as a filter, draw up the acetone with your syringe. Depending on the size of your syringe this can take a few times but shouldn’t be too hard.I didn’t use a needle in this wash. The settled amphetamines can be clumpy like in the picture as long as it was properly stirred.
http://puu.sh/9qfe4/5f0530c806.jpg
When you’ve drawn up all of the acetone that you used in the plate, and squirted it all in a container you’ll be left with a pretty wet white paste, scrape this together.http://puu.sh/9qfzL/9c707c002d.jpg
Wait about 10-15mins for it to dry. Acetone is very volatile so it wil dissipate in no time. The amphetamines you’ll be left with will be much, much purer, and cleaner in effects. They will also be more ‘rocky’ instead of sticky (if there was caffeine in them), and will chop up to powder a lot faster and easier.10 minutes after scraping the amphetamines together, this was the result:
http://puu.sh/9qfGE/46415ef96d.jpg

See any mistakes? Feel free to respond if something is unclear or if you see anything wrong with this post.
——
clubcard

Neat – has any one dared to freebase & smoke (the liquid) I think dissolving freebase if caffeine or such might be the stuff called ‘base’.

klekip

Does anyone know the safety of putting acetone through standard plastic syringes? It seams like it would leach some chemicals from the plastic?
Just a thought

sekio

Food grade PETE, HDPE, LDPE, FET/PTFE/Teflon, or polypropylene, like many oral syringes are made of, should be OK and have no extractables. Metals are OK but acetone will remove any grease, oil or pant on them. Most chemical bottles are glass, HDPE, or FET/PTFE and should be fine, although cap liners are sometimes polystyrene.

Natural rubber, polycarbonate, acrylic, or polystyrene will all dissolve in acetone. Vinyl (like electrical tape) or the adhesive on labels will dissolve too.

Look up a material compatibility chart on google for more.

tricomb

Washing Methamphetamine With Acetone

I just glanced over this and will check it out in detail later, but PLEASE put it in large red bold letters about the safety measures and precautionary protective gear that one must use and be aware of when handling, transporting, using, storing, opening, etc, such a volatile Ketone.

I only mess with anhydrous acetone and seriously, people cannot disregard how explosive and volatile it is.

I would add links to the MSDS of every chemical that in and of itself is an HR risk if not properly respected and researched prior to going out and buying and using relevant compounds. I’d do it myself but I gotta run right now, but otherwise looks good, good job P2C 🙂

Lots of chemicals say that they are flammable or to not use around open flame etc, but a lot of the time it’s written for legal liability issues for the MFC, and I assure anyone reading this, that you need to be SERIOUSLY thinking about static discharge, pilot lights, ANYTHING that could cause the more-than-5-times-as-explosive-as-gasoline compound that is Acetone. Respect the solvent and you should be okay, but of all the things to be safer vs sorry, this is not one of the one’s anyone should think “meh, it’ll be fine, it’s not stuffy in here so I don’t need to worry about the ventillation of this enclosed area.” Disregarding the safety precautions associated with anhydrous compounds like acetone is SUICIDAL and like I said, just to be safe, treating it like it’s Plutonium is a good idea even though it’s an exaggeration, I’m factoring in here that both methamphetamine and cocaine tend to make people delusional in a minor to severe way that even minor feelings of “yeah thats not gunna happen to me, I’ll just be careful, but wear a respirator? I don’t have asthma it’ll be fine.” etc.

Stimulants make you feel more invincible than you are, and since it’s stimulant users who will be using this, it’s important to me to be so explicitly clear that under the influence, you are not a good judge of your own character, so you may unknowingly decide not to do something meant to reduce the risk of making lethal mistakes that a sober and sane person wouldn’t make.

sekio

Acetone is flammable, but not ultra explosive-flammable, like things like ether, propane, acetylene, hydrogen, MAPP or butane – gases or liquids with very high vapour pressure. The boranes, carbon disulfide and diazomethane are probably the kings of bad news but they are only ever used in specific industrial processes.

Just keep it away from open flames, and sources of ignition, and you’ll be fine.

Acetone is also pretty much nontoxic. Your body makes it from fat molecules when they are metabolized. Just keep it out of any warm wet places like eyes and don’t intentionally consume any more than about 5ml in a day. (Some people use it as a solvent for things like salvia tinctures because it dissolves salvinorin better than alcohol) Work with it in a well ventilated area or outside, the vapour can irritate your lungs in large amounts.

llamer

this is a good method because it doesn’t require filtration. i don’t recommend percolating washes because there is a tendency to acquire fibers from the filter you are using that get into the product you want clean.

hardware store acetone is not going to be anhydrous and probably nowhere near dry enough to do this without wasting some product. you can dry your acetone with stuff like anhydrous epsom salt and other dessicates, although they might deposit in the material you are trying to purify. if your amphetamine still looks or feels wet when there is no more acetone smell, or if you see liquid left in your glass jar where you dumped the acetone but there’s no smell coming off it then your acetone has water in it. save that jar for when you run out of speed and don’t mind smoking your acetone wash for whatever the water took out of your stash during rinsing.

i wouldn’t worry about fire during any of this unless you can’t go five minutes without lighting up a cigarette. i’ve done this like fifty times in spaces lacking even an open window and i never had anything to worry about. it’s no more dangerous than building a model airplane.

Gizzlefrtiz

So ….

Gizzlefrtiz

So…. I have
Mouse over image to zoom

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTUyOVg4OTM=/z/YFoAAOxyOlhS9jZR/$_14.JPG

Acetone 16 oz (~500 mL) 99.9+% pure
could I do it in beakers and filter with Filter Paper Qualitative Medium 18cm (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019ZGTSC/ref=oh_details_o05_s01_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)????

monstersink81

If after acetone is used as stated, the outcome is a tanish orange substance with small orange crystals? What are the possibilities this is?

redbull1969

Hi sekio,
How about ammonia, I know people use it with coke , to be able to smoke it. If the speed is cleaned, can you smoke it then too?

redbull1969

Hi sekio,
How about ammonia, I know people use it with coke , to be able to smoke it. If the speed is cleaned, can you smoke it then too?

Jamyj49

Sounds valid. I’m getting ready to try

sekio

If you mix your amphetamine with ammonia you’ll freebase it and get an oily, shit-smelling, corrosive liquid.

The free base of amphetamine is not a drug of commerce. People smoking speed usually do it with the HCl salt.

If after acetone is used as stated, the outcome is a tanish orange substance with small orange crystals? What are the possibilities this is?

We don’t allow substance ID. It could be damn near anything.

alute

What if you use denature alcohol or vodka?

KINGCRIMSON

would this work on 3,4-CTMP HCI, dichlorolmethyphenidate ? for injection ?

creamynebula

About the discussion about the materials, the materials the syringe are made are actually irrelevant no? I mean, isn’t the acetone you are taking with the syringe going to be discarded, and the product eventually consumed the undissolved amphetamine left in the plate?
Or am I misunderstanding and the amphetamine is actually going to dissolve in acetone and be extracted this way so its not a wash?

trunkofmycar

Very helpful information!! Thanks. (:

Pill2Chill

About the discussion about the materials, the materials the syringe are made are actually irrelevant no? I mean, isn’t the acetone you are taking with the syringe going to be discarded, and the product eventually consumed the undissolved amphetamine left in the plate?
Or am I misunderstanding and the amphetamine is actually going to dissolve in acetone and be extracted this way so its not a wash?
Precisely. 🙂

hadora

personnaly i would rather use distillation rather than a simple acetone wash, it’s no more complicated and the product will be probably more than 90+% pure

Rossak

Washing Meth With Acetone Videos

cool read. 😀

Sprout

Glad someone bumped this – brilliant thread.

P2C would you mind if I used this over in EADD?
It’s 10x better than I could come up with so… 🙂

beels

Would this method remove glucose powder from base amphetamine?

darrelltj78

I assume when you say “pure”acetone that means not from the hardware store, how can you tell the difference?

mackmaine

would something like this work
http://www.walmart.com/ip/ONYX-Professionals-100-Pure-Acetone-Nail-Polish-Remover-16-fl-oz/11047134
it says 100% pure, yet the second ingredient is denatonium benzoate. would this end up messing up the gear? or i can use it same as described in the above steps

Neithman

What Does Washing Meth With Acetone Do

would something like this work
http://www.walmart.com/ip/ONYX-Professionals-100-Pure-Acetone-Nail-Polish-Remover-16-fl-oz/11047134
it says 100% pure, yet the second ingredient is denatonium benzoate. would this end up messing up the gear? or i can use it same as described in the above steps
well take a little bit of your gear and try it but i wouldnt be suprised if it doesnt work

mackmaine

Washing meth with acetone

Washing Crystal Meth With Acetone

figures :/

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